1920's Make-up & Hair - Preparation for shoot 17/02/11

Uni went pretty well today! I had a drop in session with Elizabeth Barnett Lawton, one of our new specialist lecturers! Much appreciated :) Her keen eye and exciting outlook on makeup helped to motivate me with broadening my portfolio work. 

Elizabeth has worked in the fashion department of Elle, and beauty departments of British Vogue,Harper’s, InStyle, Happy and Good Housekeeping magazines as a stylist, journalist and beauty director where she capitalised on her fashion degree to style celebrities and models for her glamorous beauty shoots.Her specialty is finding the ultimate combination of dress, jewellery and hair and makeup for events and weddings. (http://www.styleoncall.co.uk/about.html)

We discussed my previous selection of work and went through the images which I have on my facebook page. She liked many of the shots and gave me advice and tips on how to enhance my images as well as ideas for re-shooting. We agreed on adapting a previous look that I have done, which is inspired by the 1920's.

1920's Research

I started by looking at make-up plans and design charts that have been designed with inspiration from 1920's. Here are some of the plans that I have liked. 

MAC face chart for House of Holland London Fashion week 2009

An up-to-date perception of elements of the 1920's. Its interesting to see that make-up and fashion still take elements of the 20's to give a fresh new make-up look. 

MAC for NYFW uncovered these designs for Spring summer 2011

Illamasqua

When thinking of makeup in the 1920's I instantly thought of creative make-up brand, Illamasqua.

Illamasqua is the product of a heady mix of influences. Its roots stem from the dark and illicit 1920s club scene and combines a rich heritage in the manufacture of make-up for film and theatre. It also takes inspiration from members of the ‘alternative scenes’ for whom self-expression is paramount. Alternative cultures have always dared to be dramatic. They have an emotional attachment to making up. It’s an expression of their darker side, a release for their alter ego. (http://www.illamasqua.com/about/) 

The brand takes inspiration from the 1920's which can be seen within their make-up advertising campaigns, public images and colour range. 

Picture references

1920's editorial of Vogue's Sept 09 issue as featured in the film The September Issue, styled by Grace Coddington.

This fabulous selection of 1920's inspired editorial by photographer Steven Meisel and model Freja Beha are both exciting and evoke many different feelings and emotions.

The image above is from a 1920's themed editorial in German Vogue. I think it encapsulates everything about the 20's and is so pretty!

Make-up and hair by Kristy Basset.

Dandywilliamsmakeup

Paris Fashion Week 2010 - Christian Dior "All dolled up" - Inspired by 1920's black and white films.

Make-up Tips

Face: The base is natural and of a slightly pale shade to give a fresh, porcelain look. The foundation is applied lightly but is powdered with white face powder. This helps to enhance the lightness and set the foundation. 

Cheeks: 

Slight highlight on the cheekbones can be applied as well as slight contouring of the cheeks. Blush is applied lightly to the apples of the cheeks in light pinks and peach tones.

Eyebrows: The eyebrows are one of the main features of the 1920's and are thin and heavily arched, the arch is rounded. If your model has naturally thick, dark or coarse eyebrows it may be easier to block these out and apply the desired shape with an eye shadow or eyebrow pencil.

The perfect eyebrow shape for the 20's.

Eyes: The eyes are a focal point of this era. Eye shadow in dark shades of green, purples and blues as well as black is used on the eyelid only to give a bold look. Eye liner can be applied to give an enhanced image, only in black. The eyes can be enhanced further with luscious thick coats of mascara and the use of false eyelashes. This dark eye contrasts the paleness of the skin and gives a stunning overall look.

Lips: I think this is the most important feature of this era. The lip shape has to be enhanced/ adapted to give a strong look. The bow of the lips is exaggerated using lip liner and lip stick, as well as the bottom lip being made to look fuller. The corner of the lips are thinned out slightly to give slight points in the mouth. Colours that are used on the lips are; deep red, dark burgundy, maroon and rich purple.

Hair Techniques

Finger waves were a must in the 1920's. The design created a water wave effect in the hair as it had similarities to rippling water. The hair is molded into place using product and heat to set the overall look.

Im off now to do some of my own make-up plans :) hope you like the blog!!